Have a project in mind? Reach us directly, or use one of the estimate forms below to get the process started.
Pick the form that matches your project — the wheel estimator gives you a price range instantly, the general form is best for anything else.
No — every wheel goes through our full process, no matter where the damage is, so we can guarantee the finish and how long it lasts: chemical stripping, media blasting, repair on bare metal, powder coating, CNC re-machining, and clear coat. We don't skip steps, even for small, localized damage.
Unfortunately no. Powder coating can't be spot-repaired the way paint can — a touch-up would never blend in seamlessly. The wheel needs to be stripped and refinished completely to look right.
In principle, yes — but a few things to keep in mind before you decide:
If it's an option for your budget, we recommend refinishing the wheel completely at the same time — that's the only way to make the repair truly unnoticeable.
Not in powder coating — powder can't be applied to plastic caps. What we can usually do instead is find a closely matching spray paint, or vinyl-wrap the cap. If your wheels have metal center caps (common on higher-end sets), those can be powder coated right along with the wheels.
We generally don't recommend it, and here's why: powder coatings don't follow paint color codes, so matching your existing finish means comparing it to physical samples in person — it's never an exact science. We're happy to do it if you come in, pick the closest sample yourself, and accept that the other three wheels may look slightly different.
The exceptions: black wheels, black with a machined face, or wheels we've powder coated for you before, where we already have your color on file.
Single-wheel refinishing runs $260–$340, so doing all 4 together almost always works out better — better color match, and a lower price per wheel than doing them one at a time.
It can be. Our straightening process typically brings a wheel back to 75–90% round — the exact result depends on the alloy, how deep the bend is, whether there are cracks, and whether it's a 3-piece wheel, among other factors. If the tire balances to zero once it's back on the car, you generally shouldn't feel anything — but some vibration afterward isn't unusual.
Vibrations can also come from plenty of other places: suspension components, tire quality or uneven wear, tread depth, steering components like tie rods, worn engine or transmission mounts, or wheel bearings. We'd always recommend talking to a mechanic before assuming the wheel is the cause.
Yes — we carry all major tire brands, as well as budget-friendly options.
No — we only refinish and repair wheels, we don't sell them.
Generally no. We can only take large parts if they've already been sandblasted before they arrive, or if they're small enough to fit in our stripping tank — as a rule of thumb, nothing longer than about 5 feet.
No, we're closed on weekends. If you're travelling from out of town, email us and we can arrange an appointment for you.
Not at this time — we ask that you bring just the wheels to our shop rather than the vehicle.
A few options: ask your mechanic if they can hold the car for the repair window, or leave it at home on jack stands (a mobile mechanic can help with this if you're not comfortable doing it yourself). During the off-season, we can sometimes keep your car outside behind the shop — just check with us in advance to book that.
Not currently — our customers drop off and pick up their wheels directly at the shop.
